You will need to get your passenger steering knuckle drilled and tapped, or maybe not since you have a D60. Pics are a D44 steering knuckle to show you what I mean as far as machine work. GM/CHEVY/JEEP DANA60 COMPLETE 1-TON CROSSOVER HIGH STEER KIT- W/PITMAN ARM/STUDS - Chassis Unlimited Dana 60 Crossover Steering Kit ? Sky Manufacturing Ruff Stuff Dana 60 Complete Crossover & High Steer Kit (Springless) - RuffStuff Specialties I am also pretty sure you will need a (stock like) flat pitman arm and NOT a drop one anymore, believe a kit comes with it? You will need to get your passenger steering knuckle drilled and tapped, or maybe not since you have a D60. Pretty sure you will NOT need the steering block anymore. Adjustable Drag Link for 76-79 Ford Pickup and 78-79 Bronco with Power Steering - 1114 | SuperliftĬross Over Steering is one thing, High Steer is another.you can run one or both, there are complete kits available for either. Ck out free LMC catalog to get parts names or get a cheap Chilton or Hanes (at the parts store) book to learn part names.Īdjustable link. This is helpful only to you and the parts counter guy come ordering time. I am going to suggest you more home work on parts terminology. I'm buying all new steering parts and rebuilding my Dana 60 so please post links to everything I need to buy. Now what do I buy to connect the steering block to the pitman arm? Do I need to make my own bar? I've searched for information on doing crossover but each thread I read I see bits and pieces. Do I need a new steering block or can I take the block off the driver's side and put it on the passenger side? Do I need a high steer block? Can i use my current pitman arm or do I need to buy a different one? If a different one can you post a link to the correct one. Does anyone know where I can buy one that's adjustable and possibly Moog ends. ![]() My current one is an adjustable one but all bent to hell and I've only been able to find ones that cost 3-400$. I'm in need of a new drag link(or tierod) not sure which it is called. This saves from the ram or heavy impacts from stressing the knuckles.Įdited for web wheeling arm chair thunkin instead of thinking through fast to comment dumbass self.I'm trying to figure out parts and information on my 78 f250 4x4 with a Dana 60 kingpin front and a 4inch suspension lift. I like for my systems to fall short of a full lock on the knuckles. ![]() ![]() Each side off center adds up to the needed stroke. Hold square and cycle to full lock both directions. Put everything steering straight ahead and use a square to find and mark center. ![]() Just the opposite shear forces are greater and unbalanced or poorly engineered set ups will break arms off. I prefer shorter arms and tucked in since leverage isn't lacking on such a set up. In the case of full hydro (not assist like your doing) it is a matter of packaging and cycle distance. This is mostly just due to better packaging since the box (LANDS IN A PARTICULAR PLANE< AGAIN DUMASS ME ) and swapping them would make it physically impossible to cycle without smacking on one another. The link from steering arm to steering box is most always the outer (DUH ON ME ). In general the steering link from tire to tire is usually the inside (DUH ON ME ) holes in steering arms.
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